La Panthère, Cartier’s feline fragrance
Thanks to unparalleled know-how and extreme refinement, Cartier has managed to stay in the race against other major brands such as Dior, Rolex and Boucheron. Like the spirit of the house, Cartier perfumes are precious and unique. Cartier’s first fragrance, in 1987, was already called “La Panthère”. It is therefore a reinterpretation that Cartier proposed in 2014.
The Panthère according to Cartier
To create, “La Panthère”, Cartier drew on the very heritage of the house, in the early origins of the brand. In fact, the panther is none other than Jeanne Toussaint, Parisian “casserole”, who became Louis Cartier’s mistress. Jeanne was nicknamed “The Panther” because her character was fierce and inflexible… But not only! Director of the fine jewelry department, Jeanne Toussaint is at the origin of one of the most magical creations: La Panthère. “Camped on a 152.35-carat cabochon sapphire, coated with a diamond paving speckled with calibrated sapphires, the animal is imbued with ferocity and sensuality”. The first panther will be bought by the Duchess of Windsor … Since then, the feline has become the favorite emblem of the Cartier house. A very sentimental emblem.
The “floral-fawn” notes of La Panthère
It was the perfumer Mathilde Laurent who had the difficult task of imagining the new Panthère. To do this, she was inspired by a philosophical quote that said “The panther is of all animals, the only one that smells good naturally”. Through floral notes, Mathilde Laurent will then try to bring out the feline aspect that lies dormant in each woman. “La Panthère” is built around the gardenia. The beginning of the composition is a fruity green blend in the form of a styrallyl acetate molecule offering nuances of rhubarb, strawberry, apricot and dried fruit. The heart is entirely dominated by the presence of the gardenia. Finally, the base is chypre thanks to the musk ketone and oak moss, which determines the character of the panther. The bottle, meanwhile, is reminiscent of a 3D engraving. It appears to have been laser carved. Its geometric silhouette actually represents the head of a panther. The latter sports a square and angular jaw. The panther is topped with a metal headdress, as if it were his crown. Imposing, the bottle takes all the shape of the bottle and you can come face to face with the feline …
When the beautiful gardenia meets the sensuality of musks… “La Panthère”, a symbol dear to the Cartier house, is a “floral-feline” composition. Of course, “La Panthère” is reminiscent of Jeanne Toussaint, Louis Cartier’s mistress and muse. Everything here is magical, even in the bottle that looks like a panther’s head. The Cartier woman is a free, mysterious and passionate woman just like the feline.
Cartier’s feline fragrance entitled “ La Panthère ”originated in 1987. It was not until 2014 that the Cartier house wanted to offer a reinterpretation. The idea of the Cartier house was to imagine a sensual and terribly addictive fragrance, while evoking the part of felinity that lies dormant in every woman. As Mathilde Laurent, perfumer in charge of the composition, affirms “Every woman conceals a part of felinity and every flower carries animal notes in her heart”. Both fresh and sensual, “La Panthère” is intended for all passionate women.
The perfumer Mathilde Laurent, alone at the helm of La Panthère
To carry out this reinterpretation, the Cartier house called on Mathilde Laurent. First of all, you should know that this revisit was very important for the brand, because “La Panthère” is not just the name of a perfume. Indeed, “La Panthère” is the name given to Jeanne Toussaint by Louis Cartier. The latter, considered a “Parisian casserole”, was Louis Cartier’s mistress and muse. Jeanne Lanvin was so important that she headed the Cartier house in 1933 … Mathilde Laurent joined the prestigious school of perfumery, ISIPCA in 1992. Before working for Cartier, Mathilde Laurent had worked for the Guerlain house. Mathilde Laurent is considered a rebellious, talented and sensitive perfumer. Each of her essences is guided by her deep instinct and she puts all her soul into it. Mathilde Laurent is at the origin of great successes, such as “Baiser Volé”, “Declaration” or even “Baiser Fou” by Cartier.
The gardenia, the star of the La Panthère perfume
< p> In order to offer an ultra feminine composition, Mathilde Laurent wanted to build it around the gardenia, a magnificent white flower, sensual and delicate. “La Panthère” is considered a tawny floral essence. “La Panthère” begins with an ultra fresh combination mainly containing anise and bergamot. Then, her heart is full of femininity and sensuality thanks to the presence of the gardenia. The latter is a very fragrant flowering shrub and adapts equally well indoors and outdoors. The gardenia has a crazy charm, not only because of its sweet smell, but also thanks to its brilliant green foliage and its flowers of vibrant ivory colors.
Of all the white flowers, the gardenia is the most complex flower. Considered less opulent than jasmine, it is also lighter than lily. In perfumery, the gardenia is a “mute flower” because you cannot extract essential oil from it. Its scent is reproduced using a palette of synthetic molecules. Many perfumers have already put the gardenia in the spotlight, mainly Chanel, Hermès and even Tom Ford. The gardenia gives off floral and green scents, but also fruity with tones of pear or rhubarb. Finally, the base of “La Panthère” is ultra sensual and envelops the composition thanks to oak moss and white musks. The bottle is as if carved in a precious stone in the shape of a panther bust… A majestic jewel bottle, at the height of Mathilde Laurent’s composition.