The olfactory history of Calèche d’Hermès perfume
This simply refers to the love of the house of Hermès for the world of perfumery. It was designed in 1961 and has thus come down to us as a sort of olfactory testimony to the heavy heritage of the Hermès brand.
The Hermès house and the world of horse riding
The Hermès brand has always been close to the equestrian world. For good reason, it was installed in the 19th century, in Paris, as a harness maker. Likewise, Hermès is still associated today with numerous horse shows. It is therefore a nod to this fascination for this animal as well as to its history that the Calèche perfume offers us. What is more, when the carriage was introduced in France in the 19th century, it quickly became the car of all elegance. At the same time slender, light and refined, she had the reputation of enhancing the natural elegance of women. It was then essential for walks in town for the ladies of the world. In this sense, Calèche appears to be the sign of unparalleled refinement. Moreover, note that it is the first great juice marketed by Hermès. Indeed, the brand had already launched a few perfumes before it, but their success was only mixed. What is more, at that time, only couturiers and perfumers edited fragrances. Hermès was the first brand not to come from these universes and to embark on the olfactory world. In this sense, Calèche is a perfume today endowed with a very strong symbolism.
The contrasting flavor of Calèche
The talented perfumer Guy Robert created the Calèche perfume. This begins with a fresh and orange citrus-based accord. Horse-drawn carriage mixes bergamot, tangerine and orange blossom. Then, it quickly takes on a multitude of floral notes. In addition, it combines Egyptian jasmine, Bulgarian rose and lily of the valley. Gardenia, iris and ylang-ylang are also revealed in the background. Thus, Calèche appears to be a very elegant and feminine juice, filled with sunny and powdery flavors. The whole darkens nevertheless at the level of its base. Calèche finally lets out a chypre and woody flavor emanating from oak moss, cedar, sandalwood, cypress and Haitian vetiver. Everything is contained in the emblematic Hermès case. It first appeared in 1951. It quickly became the emblem of the brand perfumes. Now recognizable today, it forms a thick block of glass with contours inspired by a carriage lamp. The whole is also adorned with an oval label on which is affixed the logo of the Hermès house. This one is directly inspired by a lithograph by the painter Alfred de Dreux. To be more precise, this label represents a coachman at the foot of his horse … Really, Hermès introduces the world of horseback riding in every detail! a carriage lamp. The whole is also adorned with an oval label on which is affixed the logo of the Hermès house. This one is directly inspired by a lithograph by the painter Alfred de Dreux. To be more precise, this label represents a coachman at the foot of his horse … Really, Hermès introduces the world of horseback riding in every detail! a carriage lamp. The whole is also adorned with an oval label on which is affixed the logo of the Hermès house. This one is directly inspired by a lithograph by the painter Alfred de Dreux. To be more precise, this label represents a coachman at the foot of his horse … Really, Hermès introduces the world of horseback riding in every detail!
In the 1950s, the big fashion houses began to make their debut in perfumery and Hermès, a large leather goods house, would be the first to embark on the adventure of fragrances. L’Eau d’Hermès composed in 1951 by Edmond Roudnitska will be his first great success and the magnificent Calèche which will be released ten years later will be equally acclaimed by the public. Calèche will be the very first real Hermès perfume and will offer an elegant and modern sobriety that will make an impression. p>
Calèche or the sobriety of such a feminine construction by the talented Guy Robert
If today most of the big luxury brands that we know offer perfumes, this phenomenon is relatively recent since it was Coco Chanel who initiated this trend in the 1930s by daring to offer sound N ° 5. Mademoiselle Coco’s approach was widely criticized by “real” perfumers, yet many labels entered this new market. This is how Hermès will be the very first luxury luggage house to embark on the creation of perfumes with Eau d’Hermès in 1951.
L’Eau d’Hermès goes for everything following conquer its audience. It must be said that this Eau has nothing in common with the traditional Colognes, on the contrary: the Eau d’Hermès exudes an intense freshness which is contrasted by a leathery and woody sensuality unheard of in an eau.
< p> After the success of Eau d’Hermès, the Hermès house chose to offer this time a real perfume, Calèche, which will offer even more than the classic scents of the time. It must be said that with Edmond Roudnitska (creator of Chanel N ° 5) for Eau d’Hermès or with the talents of Guy Robert (creator of Madame Rochas) for Calèche, Hermès made wise choices in terms of perfumers! < / p>
“Hermès juice has the ambition of quality and simplicity. Something flowery, light, tenacious, without being pushy, says the original press kit. “& Nbsp; Madame Le Figaro for Calèche d’Hermès.
A fresh and daring fragrance that takes us to travel, Calèche d’Hermès
With Calèche, the very first fragrance of what would become the Comptoir New to Perfumery, Hermès made the choice to offer a great feminine perfume that could compete with Madame Rochas for example. Madame Rochas, which was composed shortly before by Guy Robert, perfumer for Calèche.
The writing of Calèche is intended to be clear, direct while being extremely qualitative. Calèche also explores with its raw materials the olfactory journeys thanks to rare ingredients coming from lands still little known at the time as with the jasmine of Egypt or the vetiver of Haiti.
Opening on magnificent bergamots, Calèche explodes with modernity thanks to the presence of aldehydes. Then the rose of Bulgaria, the jasmine of Egypt, the iris of Tuscany make the opulent and flowery heart of this fragrance which encourages both delicacy and travel. Finally, the woody notes of sandalwood, vetiver, cedar and oak moss become the sensual velvet of this Calèche decidedly filled with beautiful olfactory surprises.
“When it was created, Calèche was highly commented on, and the same words keep coming back: “racy”, “signed Hermès”, “the most Faubourg-Saint-Honoré of perfumes in Paris”, “birth of a great perfume”, “rich and fresh”, “young and vigorous”. . ”& Nbsp; Madame Le Figaro about Calèche, Hermès.